Our Camping Blog

Malaysia has several hilltop resorts, including the expansive Resorts World development at the Genting Highlands, Bukit Tinggi, Cameron Highlands, and Fraser’s Hill. Campers can head off to these highlands to enjoy the cool mountain air and some of Malaysia’s most unique forests, plants, and animals.

I have travelled several times to Fraser’s Hill, up the circuitous road from Kuala Kubu Bahru to the Gap, and then along a narrow road with as many twists and turns as an Agatha Christie crime thriller to Fraser’s Hill village. While mostly located in Pahang State, Fraser’s Hill also encompasses a part of Selangor State.

Rest, Relax, and Recuperate in Fraser’s Hill
Apart from modern cars parked here, Fraser’s Hill looks the same as all my previous visits, as nothing seems to have changed. The village appears to be stuck in a time warp, with regular visitors finding this reassuring. Regulars travel here to enjoy what the place was originally established in 1919 for: to rest, relax, and recuperate. The English-like village gets remotely crowded at weekends, but during the week, very little happens. It’s not a ghost town, and there are many things to do in the area, but most visitors appear to be content to pose for a selfie in front of the famous ivy-draped clocktower and return to Kuala Lumpur in the late afternoon.
Historic Retreat
In the late 19th century, tin was discovered here and extracted by hearty miners who were prepared to endure isolation, high rainfall, and the wilds of what was then known as Malaya.
The most celebrated miner and entrepreneur was the person after whom Fraser’s Hill was named. Many historical records identify Fraser as an eccentric Scotsman who transported the tin ore down the hill while operating an illegal gambling and opium den. However, I discovered that much of what is written about him is incorrect.
While enjoying a cream tea at Ye Olde Smokehouse, I began reading Richard Hale’s informative book, Fraser’s Hill and Lewis J. Fraser of Singapore (2018, Entrepot Publishing, Singapore). While of Scottish parentage, Lewis was born in Singapore before locating to the small village of Tras, in the lowlands below Fraser’s Hill. He seized the opportunity to transport tin ore to market either via a bridle trail to what was then known as Kuala Kubu (now Kuala Kubu Bahru) or by river all the way to Pekan, fronting the South China Sea.

Campers visiting Fraser’s Hill are advised to drop by Ye Olde Smokehouse to learn about how it began as a convalescent home for soldiers who had returned from World War I. While here, enjoy a classic British meal or cream tea, or stay in one of its heritage rooms. While enjoying my afternoon tea on the sunny verandah, I reminisced about those who had passed through the establishment in years gone by. The small property was initially referred to as the Red Cross House before being converted to an inn in 1937.

History has it that, just after World War 1, a report was prepared and submitted to the British authorities to develop Fraser’s Hill. Work commenced in 1919, with the Police Station bearing this date. Bungalows for senior public servants followed, and later, private companies obtained the right to erect mock Tudor-styled bungalows. These were mostly built for senior British staff for them to enjoy a holiday in the cool mountain setting. It is worth bearing in mind that the road journey from the Klang Valley to Fraser’s Hill in the mid-1920s would have been very adventurous. Motor vehicles were not common, and the train only operated to the closest railway station, Kuala Kubu. From there, private transport to Fraser’s Hill had to be arranged. Holidays were then mostly spent in Malaya and in only a few locations, with the mountainous regions being especially popular.
Adventures in the Hills
The bungalows at Frasers Hill were widely dispersed, and walking trails between them and to the village were the main way in which people moved around. Today, eight trails remain, and all are popular with adventurous walkers and birdwatchers. Fraser’s Hill is quite a hotspot for avifauna, which includes 275 bird species, or 42% of all birds found in Peninsular Malaysia and 88% of all known highland species. Fraser’s Hill has been recognised by BirdLife International as an Important Bird Area (IBA), and the annual Bird Race in July attracts many birdwatchers.

Dine on the Hill
While not the gourmet capital of Malaysia, there are several dining options in Fraser’s Hill, including a food court set amongst gardens and a playground. Three generations of the Yap family have operated the Hill View Restaurant, which is now located in the food court. Traditional Hainanese dishes that helped contribute to making Fraser’s Hill so famous are served in the restaurant. Ye Olde Smokehouse and Scott’s Pub both offer a nostalgic English dining experience. These venues have fireplaces, which are lit on days when the temperature drops sufficiently to warrant a fire.

The recent outlet on the hill is the Glasshouse, which once operated as a petrol station. Featuring a small, A-frame glass building, the Glasshouse is Fraser’s Hill’s contribution to the café society, where freshly brewed coffee (roasted and imported from Melbourne) and teas are served to accompany delicious cakes. The burnt cheesecake is well worth trying. Guests can admire the various cactus plants on display and take home a memento of their visit to Fraser’s Hill.
Fraser’s Hill will especially appeal to those who enjoy the simple life while relaxing in this cool location.

Travel File Getting There
Fraser’s Hill is 100 km from Kuala Lumpur, and the only access is via a circuitous road that winds its way up from the lowlands. The only public transport is via a taxi from Kuala Kubu Bahru.

Where to Stay Stay
in the colonial setting of Ye Olde Smokehouse (www.thesmokehouse.my) or in one of three dedicated camping areas, one of which is located immediately opposite Ye Olde Smokehouse.